I for one, am not a relaxed traveller. When I arrive at a destination, I like to do stuff as soon as my bag is put away and I know what bed I’ll be sleeping on for the night. Do the tourist thing and then do the local thing. So as soon as I had arrived, I found Coffee Bay to be too quiet and laid-back. I mean, I’m Australian (it says so on the passport anyways) so I know the definition of being laid-back, but Coffee Bay was a whole other story. And that’s why I had decided to stay the 1 night, and then leave for my next destination the next afternoon. I’m glad I didn’t and here’s why… There’s plenty to do in this little quiet coastal town!
— 30 Sep 2011 —
First up was a hike to Hole in the Wall. Yes, that’s right. Hole in the Wall, as in literally a rock wall with a hole in it. And yes, it’s an attraction in the Transkei.
Anyways, there’s a scenic hike on offer every 2nd day from Coffee Shack to Hole in the Wall, along the stunning coastline. On the way you will pass Baby Hole (where you can abseil down 45m) and Hlungwane Waterfall. Hole in the Wall is a natural feature formed by (millions of) years of crashing waves and erosion.
With views like this, how can you not go for the hike. But I must warn you, although I’m fit, it was still a struggle to hike upwards and onwards. And repeat. Plus the guide, Michael, treks pretty fast (bare foot no less!!) so try to keep up.
So on and on we trekked, after what seemed like forever, we arrived at an alcove. The whole area seemed to have been washed away by the waves. It reminded me of some of the places in New Zealand which were eroded away by the ocean. It was nice to take a break and wander around, I even found some interesting water patterns on the rocks that resembled tape worms.
Michael kept shouting “Onwards! Only 15 more minutes”. When you hear that, don’t believe him because I had heard that soo many times along the trail. He also kept assuring us that it was going to be a stunning ending to the walk. I thought he was referring to the cheese and tomato toasties for lunch. And how right he was (to both the view and the toasties!).
Usually at low tide, you can swim out to the hole, climb on the rock and jump in the water. Unfortunately the waves were too powerful that day so we had to settle for swimming by the shore. Seeing the others tense up upon touching the water, I decided to be smart and just sunbathe on the pebble beach. A bit uncomfortable and jagged in all the wrong places, I’m sure it was a whole lot better than having fripples!
Hole in the Wall
Address: On the coast, Hole in the Wall, Eastern Cape
Directions: Head towards Coffee Bay, turn right when you see the turn off (there’s a sign with a distinctive arrow pointing towards Hole in the Wall)